2011 Djangart Range

Pik Emma (proposed name)

Place: Djangart Valley near Ak Shirak Range

Climbers: Alex Brighton and Richard Tremellen (UK) 

Date of ascent: 22nd July, 2011

 

N 41.69426

E 078.92930

Map Height 4783m

GPS Height 4803m

Description:

North Ridge (AD)

Our route climbed from the Djangart valley, ascending a wide couloir on the west flank of Pt4561, though we never went to the summit of this mountain. We then followed the ridge line south, over Pt 4760 and on to 4783 (Pik Emma, proposed). We descended down a gully on the west face. This was extremely difficult and dangerous due to the poor quality of the rock and we would not recommend this route to other climbers. Whilst the ridge line was beautiful, both our ascent and descent lines were on poor rock and did not make for enjoyable climbing. Our entire route would be graded Alpine D, but the ridge gives AD climbing due to some rock obstacles and a heavy cornice. 


Pik Laetitia (proposed name)

Place: Kaichi Valley, Djangart Region near Ak Shirak Range 

Climbers: Alex Brighton and Richard Tremellen (UK) 

Date of ascent: 5th August 2011 

 

N 41.64860

E 078.81608

Map Height 4940m

GPS Height 4952m 

 

Description:

Phoenix Route (TD)

Our route climbed from the Kaichi valley, ascending an obvious couloir on the south west flank of the mountain and finished on the NW face. The route involved snow, rock and mixed climbing.1. Phoenix Couloir. Snow, steepening to 65%. One small rock step. 2 Hours.2. Leftward traverse exit of couloirs. Snow. 75%. 70m. 40 minutes.3. Easy slopes to first rock step. 30 minutes.4. Rock Step. 100m at Grade III / IV. 40 minutes.5. Snow Field to summit block. Conditions dependent.6. 60% Couloir through NW Ridge to give access to upper face. 30 minutes.7. Upper face. Mixed climbing. Scottish Grade 5. Up to 80%. 2 Hours.8 Hours total.

 

By Alex Brighton and Richard Tremellen

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