KAC - Kyrgyz Alpine Club

Lenin peak: Mountaineering Veterans Festival

UAAA logoLenin Peak 7134mKyrgyz Alpine Club (KAC) and Union of Asian Alpine Associations (UAAA) invite mountaineering veterans and not only veterans - all old and new mountaineering and outdoor friends to join mountain adventure – the Veteran Festival in the Pamirs in 2015.

Our Club offers 5 programmes of different activities:

 

Brief itinerary:

Day 1. Arrival in Osh. Overnight in a hotel or family run guest house. Meals: No
Day 2. Overland transfer to Achik-Tash Base Camp (BC), 3700 m (280 km, 6-7 hours drive). Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Lunch and Dinner in BC.
Day 3. Visit Climbers Memorial. Walks to Lukovaya Polyana (“Wild Onion Meadow”) – walks at the low altitude. Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Full Board
Day 4. Festival events. Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Full Board
Day 5. Trek up to the Advanced Base Camp (ABC) at 4200 m. Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Full Board
Day 6. Descent to BC. Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Full Board
Advanced Base Camp 4200mDay 7. Overland transfer to Osh. Overnight in a hotel or family run guest house. Meals: breakfast in BC only
Day 8. Departure from Osh. Overnight: No. Meals: No.

Altitude. Osh 1005m – BC 3700m – ABC 4200m - BC 3700m - Osh 1005m

This trip is recommended for participants with acclimatization on altitudes of at least 3000-4000m. For climbers without acclimatization programme Trekking II is advised.

Experience. Good level of fitness and acclimatization is required.

Equipment. Sleeping bag, light down jacket, windproof jacket and pants, woolen mittens and gloves, cover mittens, woolen hat and socks, UV protecting sun glasses and sun cream, trekking poles, headlamp and spare batteries, thermo insulation flask (thermos) and mug, carry mat.


Price includes: Accommodation in Osh, BC and ABC, airport transfers in Osh and transfer Osh - Base Camp - Osh, meals in BC and ABC, border permit, visa support and registration (if needed), guide service and consultation, radio communication within BC and ABC, registration in local Mountain Rescue Service, facilities of BC and ABC (summer shower in BC, outdoor toilets, storage service, electricity supply and solar panels to charge batteries, mess tent or dining yurt in BC and ABC).

Price does not include: Transportation of loads by porters or horses, Meals in Osh, Medical insurance. 


Brief itinerary:

Ala-Archa GorgeDay 1. Arrival in Bishkek. Overnight in a hotel or family run guest house. Meals: No
Day 2. Overland transfer to Ala-Archa Nature Park (2100 m), walking around the gorge, visit mountaineering memorial. Active acclimatization. Overnight in the park. Meals: No.
Day 3. Climb to Ratsek camp on Ak-Sai Glacier (3300 m, 4-5 hours). Overnight in Ak-Sai mountain hut. Meals: Full Board
Day 4. Walking along Ak-Sai Glacier up to 4500 m. Meals: Full Board.
Day 5. Descent to Ala-Archa park and drive to Bishkek. Overnight in a hotel or family run guest house. Meals: breakfast
Waterfall on the way to Advanced Base Camp 4400mDay 6. Domestic flight to Osh. Overnight in a hotel or family run guest house. Meals: No
Day 7. Overland transfer to Achik-Tash Base Camp,3700 m (280 km, 6-7 hours drive). Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Lunch and Dinner in BC.
Day 8. Visit Climbers Memorial. Walk to Lukovaya Polyana (“Wild Onion Meadow”) – walks at the low altitude. Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Full Board
Day 9. Festival events. Overnight in Camp tents. Meals: Full Board
Day 10. Trek up to Advanced Base Camp at 4200 m. Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Full Boar 
Day 11. Descent to BC. Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Full Board
Day 12. Overland transfer to Osh. Overnight in the Hotel or family run Guest House. Meals: Breakfast in BC only
Day 13. Departure from Osh. Overnight: No. Meals: No.

Altitude. From day 6 to day 13 the programme is similar to Trekking I. The first five days are active acclimatization activities.  Bishkek (700 m) - Ala-Archa (2100 m) – Ak-Sai (3300 m) – Ak-Sai (4000-4500m) - Ala-Archa – Bishkek.

Second part of the program includes: Osh 1005m – Base Camp 3700m – Advanced Base Camp 4200m (ABC) – Base Camp 3700m - Osh 1005m. This trip is recommended for participants without or with low acclimatization on altitudes of at least 4000m.

Experience. Good level of fitness

Equipment. Sleeping bag, light down jacket, windproof jacket and pants, woolen mittens and gloves, cover mittens, woolen hat and socks, UV protecting sun glasses and sun cream, trekking poles, headlamp and spare batteries, thermo insulation flask (thermos) and mug, carry mat.


Price includes: Accommodation in Bishkek, Ala-Archa, Ak-Sai, Osh, Base Camp (BC) and Advanced Base Camp (ABC), airport transfers in Bishkek and Osh, domestic air fare Bishkek-Osh-Bishkek, transfer Osh-Base Camp-Osh, meals in BC and ABC, border permit, visa support and registration (if needed), radio communication within BC and ABC, registration in local Mountain Rescue Service, guide service and consultation, facilities of BC and ABC (summer shower in BC, outdoor toilet, storage service, electricity supply and solar panels to charge batteries, mess tent or dining yurt in BC and ABC).

Price does not include: Transportation of loads by porters or horses, Meals in Bishkek and Osh, Medical insurance. 


Brief itinerary: 

Base Camp 3800mDay 1. Arrival in Osh. Overnight in a hotel or family run guest house. Meals: No
Day 2. Overland transfer to Achik-Tash Base Camp, 3700 m (280 km, 6-7 hours drive). Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Lunch and Dinner in the BC.
Day 3. Festival events. Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Full Board
Day 4. Trek to the ABC at 4200 m.
Day 5. Acclimatization walks in the camp area. Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Full Board
Day 6. Acclimatization walks in the camp area. Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Full Board
Day 7. Climbing up to the Camp 2 at 5300 m. Own tents and meals.
5300mDay 8. Descent to ABC at 4200 m. Overnight in tent camp. Meals: lunch and dinner in ABC
Day 9. Climbing up to the Camp 2 at 5300 m. Own tents and meals.
Day 10. Ascent to Mt Razdelnaya 6100 m and back to Camp 2. Own tents and meals.
Day 11. Descent to ABC at 4200 m. Overnight in camp tents. Meals: lunch and dinner in ABC
Day 12. Descent to the BC. Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Full Board
Day 13. Overland transfer to Osh. Overnight in a hotel or family run guest house. Meals: Breakfast in the BC only
Day 14. Departure from Osh. Meals: No.

Route description is similar to the programme Trekking I till Camp 3.

Altitude. Osh 1005 m – BC 3700 m – ABC 4200 m - Razdelnaya Peak 6100 m.

Experience. Experience at altitude of at least 5000m. Confident command of crampons and ice axe while moving on firn and ice slopes. Move on open and closed glacier by rope. Experience of carrying loads preferably on altitudes.

Equipment. Sleeping bag and sleeping mat, light down jacket, Polartec jacket and pants, windproof jacket and pants, woolen mittens and gloves, cover mittens, woolen hat and socks, UV protecting sun glasses and sun cream, high altitude boots and gaiters, crampons, ice axe, ski or telescopic poles, high altitude tent, rope, harness, prusik, 2-3 ice screws, ascender (jumar), descender, headlamp and reserve batteries, gas burner, thermo insulation flask (thermos) and mug. High altitude tent team, avalanche radio buoy.


Price includes: Accommodation in Osh, BC and ABC, transfers in Osh airport and Osh-BC-Osh, meals in the BC (3 days) and in the ABC (5 days), border permit, visa support and registration (if needed), radio communication within BC, ABC and high camps, registration in local Mountain Rescue Service, facilities of BC and ABC (summer shower in BC, outdoor toilet, storage service, electricity supply and solar panels to charge batteries, mess tent or dining yurt in BC and ABC).

Price does not include: Mountain guide for ascent, Transportation of loads by porters or horses, Meals in Bishkek, Osh, and in high camps (5300m - 6400m - 6100m), Gas to cook in high camps, Medical insurance, international airfare to Osh.


Brief itinerary:

5500mDay 1. Arrival in Osh. Overnight in a hotel or guest house. Meals: No
Day 2. Overland transfer to Achik-Tash Base Camp, 3700 m (280 km, 6-7 hours drive). Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Lunch and Dinner in BC
Day 3. Festival events. Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Full Board
Days 4-16. Acclimatization. Ascent. Tents and meals are provided in the Base Camp (3 days) and Advanced Base Camp (5 days). Own tent and meals should be provided for higher camps (5300 m - 6100 m - 6400 m).
Day 17. Descent to BC. Overnight in tent camp.
Day 18. Overland transfer to Osh. Overnight in a hotel or family run Guest House. Meals: No
Lenin Peak at night timeDay 19. Departure from Osh. Overnight: No. Meals: No

The programme allows sufficient time for acclimatization. However, if you need extra time for acclimatization an extra day in the mountains can be arranged by request.

Altitude. Osh 1005 m – Base Camp 3700 m – Camp 1 (Advanced Base Camp) at 4200 m – Camp 2 at 5300 m – Camp 3 at 6100 m – Camp 4 at 6400 m - Lenin Peak 7134 m

Experience & mountaineering technique. High level of fitness and experience at altitude of at least 6000 m is required. Move on open and closed glacier by rope and crevasses experience. Confident command of crampons and ice axe while moving on firn and ice slopes. From Camp 3 (6100 m) ascend along the western ridge of Lenin Peak. The first part of this ridge can be mixed snow and rock. A rocky plateau is reached at 6400 m (where it is possible to establish a Camp 4 if needed). Above this plateau there is a short steepest snow slope of 20 degrees where fixed rope and ice axe may be necessary to use, pass this section with care, particularly during the descent. Further above there is a rocky section before reaching the pre summit plateau which at first drops then rises to the true summit plateau at 7134 m. Approximate average return time from Camp 3 to summit is 10-15 hours. The route to the summit can be subject to extreme strong winds which can also be incredibly cold.cal, oblique and horizontal fixed ropes using jumar (ascender). Descent on fixed ropes using belay device. Experience of carrying loads preferably on altitudes.

Price includes: Accommodation in Osh, Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp, airport transfers in Osh, transfer Osh-Base Camp-Osh, meals in Base Camp (3 days) and Advanced Base Camp (5 days), border permit, visa support and registration (if needed), radio communication within BC, ABC and high camps, registration in local Rescue Service, facilities of BC and ABC (summer shower in Base Camp outdoor toilet, storage service, electricity supply and solar panels to charge batteries, mess tent or dining yurt in BC and ABC). 


Price does not include: Mountain guide for ascent, Transportation of loads by porters or horses, Meals in Bishkek, Osh, and in high camps (5300m-6400m-6100m), Gas to cook in high camps, Medical insurance, international airfare to Osh.

Equipment. Sleeping bag and sleeping mat, light down jacket, Polartec jacket and pants, windproof jacket and pants, woolen mittens and gloves, cover mittens, woolen hat and socks, UV protecting sun glasses and sun cream, high altitude boots and gaiters, crampons, ice axe, ski or telescopic poles, high altitude tent, rope, harness, prusik, 2-3 ice screws, ascender (jumar), descender, headlamp and spare batteries, gas burner, thermo insulation flask (thermos) and mug. High altitude tent, team avalanche radio buoy. 


Brief itinerary:

5300m-5150mDay 1. Arrival in Osh. Transfer to Achik-Tash BC 3700 m (280 km, 6-7 hours drive). Meals: dinner
Day 2. Festival events. Preparation for ascent. Overnight inp tent camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner in BC
Days 3-10. Acclimatization. Ascent. Tents and meals are provided in the Base Camp (3 days) and Advanced Base Camp (3 days). Own tent and meals should be provided for higher camps (5300 m - 6100 m - 6400 m).
Day 11. Descent to BC. Overnight in tent camp.
Day 12. Overland transfer to Osh. Departure from Osh. Meals: breakfast

Route description: Classic route via Razdelnaya Peak like for Climbing programme.

To the summitThe programme is for acclimatized trained climbers who has limit of holiday. However, if they need extra time for acclimatization an extra days in the mountains can be arranged by request. 

Altitude. Osh 1005 m – Base Camp 3700 m – Camp 1 (Advanced Base Camp) at 4200 m – Camp 2 at 5300 m – Camp 3 at 6100 m – Camp 4 at 6400 m - Lenin Peak 7134 m

Experience & mountaineering technique. High level of fitness, acclimatization at least till 4500 m and experience at altitude of at least 6000 m is required. Move on open and closed glacier by rope and crevasses experience. Confident command of crampons and ice axe while moving on firn and ice slopes. Climbing on vertical, oblique and horizontal fixed ropes using jumar (ascender). Descent on fixed ropes using belay device. Experience of carrying loads preferably on altitudes. 

Equipment. Sleeping bag and sleeping mat, light down jacket, Polar jacket and pants, windproof jacket and pants, woolen mittens and gloves, cover mittens, woolen hat and socks, UV protecting sun glasses and sun cream, high altitude boots and gaiters, crampons, ice axe, ski or telescopic poles, high altitude tent, rope, harness, prusik, 2-3 ice screws, ascender (jumar), descender, headlamp and spare batteries, gas burner, thermo insulation flask (thermos) and mug. High altitude tent, team avalanche radio buoy.


Price includes: Accommodation in Base Camp (3 days) and Advanced Base Camp (3 days), airport transfers in Osh, transfer Osh-Base Camp-Osh, meals in the Base Camp (3 days) and Advanced Base Camp (3 days), border permit, visa support and registration (if needed), radio communication within BC, ABC and high camps, registration in local Mountain Rescue Service, facilities of BC and ABC (summer shower in Base Camp, outdoor toilet, storage service, electricity supply and solar panels to charge batteries, mess tent or dining yurt in BC and ABC).

Price does not include: Mountain guide for ascent, Transportation of loads by porters or horses, Accommodation and meals in Osh, in high camps (5300m - 6400m - 6100m), Gas to cook in high camps (5300m - 6400m - 6100m), Medical insurance. 

 

Participation statement. Kyrgyz Alpine Club insistently advises all participants of climbing, mountaineering and hiking to be aware of and accept possible risks of personal injury or death might be caused by the mentioned activities. Participants should be responsible for their own actions and involvement.

 

Individual dates of arrival and departure for groups can be scheduled by request.

 

From Achik-Tash Base Camp (3700 m) walk through the glade of Lukovaya Polyana (“Wild Onion Meadow”). As the plateau ends follow the small steep path that ascends towards Puteshestvennikov Pass (4100 m). Descend again via the moraine to the right where the climb up the Lenin Glacier begins (about 5 km from Base Camp). Walk for 5 km along the Glacier moraine to an altitude of about 4200 m where Advanced Base Camp sites are located on moraine near the head of the Glacier (approximate average time from Base Camp to Advanced Base Camp is 6-8 hours).

From Camp 1 (ABC 4200 m), cross the flat glacier again and go right up the face to the "Skovorodka" (frying pan). This area is crevassed and it is highly advisable for people to use crampons, ropes and move together in roped climbing teams of at least 2, but preferably 3-4 people. Fixed ropes are placed sometimes across difficult or dangerous crevassed sections, but the safety of these can not always be depended on (especially as ice screws are prone to melting out in the midday heat). At the top of the steep section begins the traverse to Camp 2, which is located on a rocky section to the far right of the glacier at about 5300 m (approximate average time from ABC to Camp 2 is 6-8 hours). This section can be exhausting in good weather due to the heat. By this reason early start is highly recommended.

From Camp 2 (5300 m) ascend above the camp to gain the ridge (steep ascend). Follow the ridge up to an altitude of 6100m where Camp 3 can be set up in the small col under Mt Razdelnaya at an altitude of about 6100 m (approximate average time from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is 4-6 hours). This part of the ascent is a snow slog with few crevasses. Rope and harness are not usually necessary. It is possible to camp along the ridge in the event of bad weather or emergency.

From Camp 3 (6100 m) ascend along the western ridge of Lenin Peak. The first part of this ridge can be mixed snow and rock. A rocky plateau is reached at 6400 m (where it is possible to establish a Camp 4 if needed). Above this plateau there is a short steepest snow slope of 20 degrees where fixed rope and ice axe may be necessary to use, pass this section with care, particularly during the descent. Further above there is a rocky section before reaching the summit plateau which at first drops then rises to the true summit plateau at 7134 m. Approximate average return time from Camp 3 to summit is 10-15 hours. The route to the summit can be subject to extreme strong winds which can also be incredibly cold.

The area is administrated by Chon-Alaiskyi region of Osh oblast. It is one of the world famous climbing regions. The most easily accessed 7 000 m summit is located here - Lenin Peak 7134 m. The region occupies northern slopes of the Zaalaiski Range on the border with Tajikistan 30 km from Kashkasu village. Slopes and mountain tops are covered with snow and ice due to the severe glaciations. Elevation is up to 3000 m. Routes are not technically difficult and on snow or snow-ice. This circumstance gives great opportunity for high-altitude climbing to people even without special skills. The climate is much milder than of the Tien-Shan. The average temperature of July-August is 10°С in the Achik-Tash base camp. On the route temperature can reach minus 30 C, thunderstorms, and heavy snow falls. The heaviest precipitation is in April through beginning of June and the least is in August-September. Mountain road from Osh city goes over Taldyk pass (3615 m) right to the base camp. The distance is 220 km. Due to the popularity there are a lot of expeditions, base camps and climbers from all over the world at Achik-Tash grounds.

Lenin Peak was discovered in 1871 by the expedition of Alexei Fedchenko and was called Kaufman Peak (after the first governor-general of Turkestan of the Russian Empire - Konstantin von Kaufman). In 1928 the first ascent was done by the climbers of the joint Russian-German-Austrian expedition: Karl Wien, Eugene Allwein and Erwin Schneider. It was then that the summit was given name of Lenin.

Lenin Peak is one of the easiest (technically) seven thousand meters summits in the world. There are almost no technical points on the route. Access to the Peak is also easy – 5 to 6 hours drive from Osh airport to the Lenin Peak Base Camp by road. Lenin Peak is good start in high mountains climbing.

There are 18 known routes to the summit: 9 from the north and 9 from the south. The safest and the most popular one is the route from the north via Razdelnaya Peak (6148 m) from Achik-Tash Canyon. In the area there are also several summits below 7000 m but they are not as popular as Lenin Peak.

 

orographical scheme of Zaalayskiy Range

Peaks Glaciers Rivers Camps
1. Lenin Peak, 7134m
2. Razdelnaya Peak, 6148 m
3. Krylenko Peak, 6788 m
4. 19th Siezd KPSS Peak, 5920 m
5. Dzerzhinskogo Peak
6. Moskva-Peking Peak
7. Edinstva Peak, 6673 m
8. Oktyabrsky Peak, 6780 m
A. Lenina Gl.
B. Tash-Kunghey Gl.
C. Kaman Gl.
D. Korzhenevskogo Gl.
E. Dzerzhinskogo Gl.
F. Saukdara Malaya Gl.
G. Saukdara Bolshaya Gl.
H. Oktyabrsky Gl.
Achik-Tash BC - Base Camp
ABC - Advanced Base Camp
C2 - Camp 5300m
C3 - Camp 6100m
C4 - Camp 6400

Mountain and trekking guides, porters.
During the programs participants are accompanied by guides till Osh. Easy Climbing and Climbing programs over ABC are estimated for experienced climbers who can climb without guides. If participants are not confident enough it is highly recommend using service of professional individual guides. In Kyrgyzstan there are guides trained by UIAGM-IFMGA standards. Kyrgyzstan is candidate country to UIAGM-IFMGA and has own Mountain Guide School with certified mountain guides and guides-aspirants. Also there are experienced guides certified by the Kyrgyz national standard which is close to UIAGM-IFMGA standards. From BC till Camp 4 loads can be carried by horses and porters. Usually horses can walk from BC to ABC and for the trips from ABC it is possible to hire porters (option to arrange on the spot).

Climate & Weather.
The weather can be mixed. We expect a fair share of sunshine, clouds, fog, winds, rain and snow. Daytime temperatures vary from +25C to -25C at night in the high camps.

Insurance and rescue.
It is vitally important that you have adequate travel medical insurance for your trip in Kyrgyz mountains. Please ensure that your insurer is aware of your itinerary and agrees to cover the activities being undertaken – including mountain search & rescue, helicopter evacuation and medical expenses should be cover sum over 30,000 EUR. It is not possible to provide such insurance locally. Kyrgyz Alpine Club will require a copy of the insurance prior your arrival to Kyrgyzstan. Mountain Rescue and Assistance will be provide by “Mountain Rescue Service”.

Food & gas.
Meals in cities and during climbing of Easy Climbing and Climbing programs over ABC are by own supply. KAC can help to buy high altitude food and gas cylinders by preliminary request. Any special meal requirements (vegetarian etc.) should be communicated before arrival in Kyrgyzstan.

Logistics.
KAC provides all necessary formalities and services according to the programs. Participants need to bring their own climbing tents and food for camps higher than ABC. KAC can provide high altitude food, rent of equipment and gas cylinders by preliminary request. Single accommodation is possible by advance booking.

Visas and permits. The following formalities for the Festival programs are needed: visas and permits to boundary zone (Lenin peak area). According the Law on Visa regulation issued by the Kyrgyz Parliament in 2012 citizens of 44 developed countries may visit Kyrgyzstan during 60 days without visa. KAC can provide visa support and visa for citizens of the other countries.

How to get to Osh and Bishkek.
Several international air companies fly to Bishkek such as Turkish Airlines via Istanbul (www.turkishairlines.com), Aeroflot Russian Airlines via Moscow (www.aeroflot.ru), S7 Airlines via Moscow (www.s7.ru), Rossiya Airlines via St.Petersburg (www.rossiya-airlines.com), Ural Airlines via Ekaterinburg (www.uralairlines.ru), AeroSvit Airlines via Kiev (www.aerosvit.com), Air Astana via Almaty (www.airastana.com), Uzbekistan Airlways via Tashkent (www.uzairways.com), Fly Dubai (www.flydubai.com), China Southern Airlines via Urumqi (www.flychinasouthern.com) and Tajikistan Airlines (www.tajikair.tj). There are also direct flights from Moscow to Osh executed by Aeroflot, S7 and Russia Airlines. Also there are several flights a day from Bishkek by domestic air companies. Another option to come to Bishkek is via Almaty (Kazakhstan) which has big international airport with many international flights. Drive from Almaty to Bishkek takes about 5-6 hours depending on time for border formalities.

International and domestic flights. Participants organize their own international flights. KAC provides domestic flight only for Trekking II program. Domestic flights for other programmes can be arranged by request.

For more information: Email to Kyrgyz Alpine Club: alpclub-kg(at)mail.ru

/spanp style=

color: #000000;font-family: tahoma,arial,helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: small;span style=