“Mountain Spirit Program” (MSP)

Aug. 29, 2016 updated

18.Iran Team & guide

The mountaineering adventure in the Tien-Shan and Pamirs mountains in Kyrgyzstan.

The Kyrgyz Alpine Club (KAC) conducts a special alpinist project “Mountain Spirit Program” (MSP) every year. The main point of MSP is to popularize mountaineering and mountain exploration in Kyrgyzstan, develop friendship between alpine enthusiasts and support young climbers in Asia.

KAC invites 10-16 climbers free of charge from members of UAAA and another Asian countries by 2-4 climbers from a member to do ascents in Kyrgyz mountains.

 

Goals of MSP:

  • to promote true mountaineering spirit and expand ties of friendship and exchange experience between Asian young climbers.
  • to promote mountaineering in Kyrgyzstan

 

Expedition areas, type of climbing:

 

  • Technical ice climbing (master class on ice training and just ice climbing ascents) up to 4895m on Ak-Sai Glacier, Ala-Archa Nature Park, Kyrgyz Range, the Northern Tien-Shan.
  • High altitude climbing on Lenin Peak 7134m, Zaalai Range, the Pamirs.

 

Terms and conditions of MSP.

 

  • Program from Bishkek to Bishkek for Ak-Sai Glacier area and from Osh

to Osh for Lenin Peak free of charge.

2) Time and duration:

  • Technical team (Ak-Sai Glacier, North Tien Shan). July (12 days)
  • High altitude team (Lenin Peak, Pamirs): July – August (20 days).

3) Participants:

–        Each expedition team should consist of minimum 2 climbers (one rope). Both should have prior joint climbing training / climbing experience. Teams should be active in mountaineering, training and demonstrate strong motivation in further development of their mountaineering experience & skills.

–        Age for technical climbers is 20-40 years old, for Lenin Peak 25-40 (one participant of Lenin Peak team could be older if he is as tutor for another rope member)

–        If a member wants to send more climbers than number of free expedition packages offered by KAC, it is possible to do it for extra payment. In case if it will be the same dates as dates of MSP, KAC can do it at discounted price. Please contact KAC about the further details.

–        The teams will be presented as jointed team of a few nations in both areas – on Ak-Sai Glacier and on Lenin Peak. They will coordinate climbing activities between themselves and with KAC representatives.

 

Minimum technical requirements:

 

for Ak-Sai team:

  • Mountaineering experience in the mountains up to 2000-2500m and ascents of easy technical level;
  • Basic skills in using climbing equipment;
  • Attaching to the rope and other climbing knots;
  • Moving efficiently over ice- rocky ‘scrambling’ terrain;
  • Belaying and protection techniques on rock, ice and snow;
  • Use of crampons and ice axe on snow and ice;
  • Taking coils and moving together with the rope;
  • Safe glacier travel and crevasse rescue;
  • Descending on snow and ice;
  • Alpine navigation and interpretation of maps and guidebooks;
  • Selection and preparation of climbing equipment;
  • First medical aid

 

           Lenin Peak team:

  • Mountaineering experience in the mountains up to 4000m;
  • Progression on sloping and horizontal fixed ropes;
  • Reclipping on fixed rope without losing belay;
  • Roping (descent) using belay device;
  • Movement on firn and ice slopes (up to 30 degree) by crampons and

with ice axe;

  • Movement on dray and wet glacier as rope team;
  • Self-belay on firn and ice slopes;
  • Safe glacier travel and crevasse rescue;
  • Climbing up by vertical fixed rope using 1 jumar (it is required in

case of glacier crevasses accident);

  • First medical aid

 

List of equipment for:

 

           Ak-Sai team:

mountaineering boots (for altitude up to 5000m), snow gaiters, crampons, windproof & waterproof jacket with hood, warm & waterproof over-gloves or/and mitts, mountaineering or climbing harness, climbing helmet, prussic loops x 2 (5 m / 16 ft of 6 mm cord), ice axe (technical if need), sleeping bag (for up to -10C / 14F), thermarest or similar sleeping mat, tent, rucksack (40 l minimum), head-torch, sunglasses, trekking poles, gas stove (screw type), carabiners, ropes, pitons, “friends” and another climbing gear needed according to the routes which climbers are going to climb.

           Lenin Peak team:

high altitude mountaineering boots (for up to -30C / -22F), hiking boots, snow gaiters, crampons, windproof & waterproof jacket with hood, warm & waterproof over-gloves and mitts, mountaineering or climbing harness, climbing helmet, ice screws x 2, karabiners x 3-4, prussic loops x 2 (3-5 m / 16 ft of 6 mm cord), rope as minimum 8 mm x 20 m  (for each two climbers), ice axe, 5 season sleeping bag (up to -25  -30C / -13 -22F), thermarest or similar sleeping mat, high altitude tent, rucksack (40 l minimum), head-torch, sunglasses, trekking poles, gas stove (screw type).

4)  Free service provided by KAC for the teams:

 

In Ak-Sai:

  • Visa support (if required)
  • Registration in passport department OVIR (if required)
  • Registration at Kyrgyz Mountain Rescue Service
  • Certificate of ascent issued by Kyrgyz Alpine Club
  • Airport transfers in Bishkek
  • Transfer Bishkek – Ala-Archa National Park (return way)
  • Accommodation:
  • in Bishkek: Guest House – 1 night (incl. breakfast)
  • in Ak-Sai Base Camp (Ak-Sai mountain hut, 3300m)
  • Food and gas for the mountains

NB: KAC provides food and gas but participants have to carry

it themselves as well cooking for themselves (alternativel

porter&cook’s service can be ordered at extra payment.

                   Please inform KAC about it in advance).

  • Outdoor toilet
  • Storage service
  • Electricity supply / Solar panels in the mountain hut to charge batteries
  • Mess room in the mountain hut
  • Ice climbing master class training route, one-two ascent with experience guide or instructor, consultation by experienced guides or instructors
  • Assistance in changing of departure dates of air tickets. Air company fees for change are subject to extra payment only.

 

On Lenin Peak:

 

  • Visa support (if required)
  • Registration in passport department OVIR (if required)
  • Border permit and delivery the permit to Osh or BC
  • Registration at Kyrgyz Mountain Rescue Service
  • Certificate of ascent issued by Kyrgyz Alpine Club
  • Airport transfers in Osh
  • Transfers Osh – Achiktash Base Camp – Osh
  • Accommodation:
  • in Osh: Guest House – 1 night (incl. breakfast)
  • in BC: tents on double sharing basis + warm mattresses
  • in ABC: tents on double sharing basis
  • Full board in the BC (3600m) and ABC (4200m)
  • Summer shower in BC
  • Outdoor toilet
  • Storage service
  • Electricity supply / Solar panels in BC and ABC to charge batteries
  • Mess tent or yurt in the BC & ABC
  • Route consultation by experienced mountain guides in BC and ABC
  • Assistance in changing of departure dates of air tickets.