Mountaineering Expedition: Lenin Peak 7134 m
Best season: July 15 – August 25
Standard program Bishkek-Bishkek (21 days): USD 1050 per personDiscount for long-term partners – USD 140 per person
Discount for groups of 10 persons and more – USD 100 per person
Standard program Osh-Osh (19 days): USD 900 per personDiscount for long-term partners – USD 100 per person
Discount for groups of 10 persons and more – USD 50 per person
Budget program: USD 300 per personDiscount for long-term partners – USD 25 per person
Discount for groups of 10 persons and more – USD 15 per person
Service available at extra payment (not included in standard programs):Conditions and notes:
- Prices are valid for groups booked and paid 8 weeks before arrival or earlier In case of late booking and payment (less than 8 weeks) extra charge for formalities US$ 70 per person is charged.
- For individuals and groups up to 4 climbers shared transport from Osh to Base Camp and from Base Camp to Osh will be provided, day of transfer is floating. Departure schedule of transfers to join should be reconfirmed with ITMC in advance. In rare cases for those who book arrival before July 15 or departure after August 20 an extra day in Osh or in Base Camp may be required.
- Climbers provide personal mountaineering gear for ascent and choose tactics for ascent by themselves.
- Kyrgyz Airlines operating domestic flights Bishkek-Osh reserves right to change air fare without prior notice.
- On domestic flights baggage allowance is 15 kg per person, overweight is charged at US$ 1 / kg.
- If expedition group prefers to send mountaineering gear/outfit to Bishkek or Osh in advance, ITMC can arrange customs clearance and provide delivery to Osh. For more details please contact us.
- Climbers must have medical insurance with a minimum coverage of US$ 40 000.
Scheme of standard program Bishkek-Bishkek
|1.||International flight to Bishkek.||–|
|2.||Arrival in Bishkek. Domestic morning flight to Osh.||Hotel 3*|
|3.||Transfer Osh – Achik-Tash Base Camp (3700m).||Base Camp Tents|
|4-18.||Acclimatization, climbing (15 days).||–|
|19.||Transfer from Achik-Tash Base Camp to Osh.||Hotel 3*|
|20.||Domestic flight to Bishkek. Transfer to the hotel.||Hotel 3*|
|21.||International flight from Bishkek.||–|
Scheme of standard program Osh-Osh
|1.||International flight to Osh (directly from Russia and China).||–|
|2.||Arrival in Osh. Transfer Osh – Achik-Tash Base Camp (3700m).||Base Camp Tents|
|3-17.||Acclimatization, climbing (15 days).||–|
|18.||Transfer from Achik-Tash Base Camp to Osh.||Hotel 3*|
|19.||Departure by morning flight.||–|
Note: Duration of program can be changed by request.
From Achik-Tash Base Camp (3700m) walk through the glade of Lukovaya Polyana (“wild onion meadow”). As the plateau ends follow the small steep path that ascends towards Puteshestvennikov Pass (4100m). Descend again via the moraine to the right where the climb up Lenin Glacier begins (about 5 km from Base Camp). Walk along the Glacier further for 5 km to the altitude of 4200m where Advanced Base Camp is located on the moraine near the head of glacier. Approximate time from Base Camp to Advanced Base Camp is 6-8 hours of hiking.
From Camp 1 (Advanced Base Camp, 4200m) cross the flat glacier again and go right up the face to the “Skovorodka” (“frypan”). This area is heavily crevassed and it is highly recommended to use ropes and move together in roped climbing teams of at least 2, but preferably 3 climbers. Relatively steep (45º+) part of snow or ice between camps 1 and 2 are protected by fixed ropes. But be aware that in some parts ice screws are prone to melting out in the midday heat. At the top of the steep section begins the traverse to Camp 2, which is located on a rocky section to the far right of the glacier at about 5300m. Approximate ascent time from ABC at 4200m to Camp 2 at 5300m is 6-8 hours. This section can be exhausting in sunny weather due to the heat.
From Camp 2 at 5300m ascend steeply above the camp to gain the ridge. Follow the ridge up to an altitude of 6100 m where Camp 3 can be set up on the small col under Mt Razdelnaya at an altitude of about 6100m.
Approximate ascent time from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is 4-6 hours. This part of the ascent is a snow slog with few crevasses where rope and harness are not usually necessary. It is possible to camp along the ridge in case of bad weather or emergency.
From Camp 3 at 6100m ascend along the western ridge of Peak Lenin.
The first part of this ridge can be mixed snow and rock. A rocky plateau is reached at 6400 m (where it is possible to establish Camp 4 if required). Above this plateau is a short steepest snow slope of about 40 degrees where there is often a fixed rope and an ice axe may be necessary, care should be taken on this short section, particularly on the descent. Above this there is a rocky section before reaching the pre summit plateau which at first drops then rises to the true summit plateau at 7134m. Approximate time from Camp 3 to summit and return is 10-15 hours. The whole route to the summit can be subject to extremely high winds which can also be incredibly cold.
List of equipment:
High altitude mountaineering boots (for up to -30C), hiking boots, snow gaiters, crampons, baselayer, down jacket, windproof & waterproof jacket with hood, warm & waterproof gloves or mitts, mountaineering or climbing harness, climbing helmet, karabiners (2 x screwgate), prussic loops x 2 (5m / 16ft of 6mm cord), rope, ice axe (light, not technical), sleeping bag (up to -25C), thermarest or similar sleeping mat, high altitude tent, rucksack (40 l minimum), head-torch, sunglasses, trekking poles, gas-stove and kitchen/dining set, medical aid kit.