Kyrgyz Range

Climbing routes of Ak-Say Glacier area (Ala-Archа George of Kyrgyz Range, Tien-Shan)

Status at July 10, 2017.

Routes count according grades (Russian grades):

1B – 8, 2А – 13, 2B – 4, 3А – 14, 3B -11, 4А – 10, 4B – 18, 5А – 33, 5B – 40, 6А – 11, Σ- 162 ( from its Korona Peak 38 routes, Svobodnaia Korea (Free Korea) Peak 25 routes).

Accounted as classified routes, as non classified routes (marked by *). Estimation of non classified routes was done according of first ascent team estimation. First ascent in the area was done on 1938 by V.Ozarovskii on Uchitel Peak.

Fig. 1. Orographik Scheme of Ak-Say Glacier area, Ala-Archa Gorge, Kyrgyz Range. Peak numbers on the Scheme:

1 – Pioneer Peak, 2 -Komsomolets Peak, 3 – Pavlika Morozova Peak, 4 – Olega Koshevogo Peak, 5 – Uchitel (Ticher) Peak, 6 – Baichichikey Peak, 7 – Skriabina Peak, 8 – Semionova Tien-Shanskogo Peak, 9 – Korona west Peak, 10 – Korona Peak, 11 – Izyskatel Peak, 12 – Dvurogaia Peak, 13 – Kosmonavtov Peak, 14 – Bailian-Bashi Peak, 15 – Skriabina Peak, 16 – Svobodnaia Korea (Free Korea) Peak, 17 – Ak-Too Peak, 18 – Trezubets Peak, 19 – Teke-Tor Peak, 20 – Ratseka Peak, 21 – Boks Peak, 22 – Pero Peak. Buildings in the area: I -Natural Park Ala-Archa, II – Ak-Say hut on Ratsek Stop, Nauka hut, Korona hut.

List of summits and routes Peak number on the map, name , altitude meters, numbers of photos
Route # on a photo		First climbing team leader, route			Grade			Year
1. Pioneer Peak, 4050, #1, photo#1
1.1			Marechek B. (from N)		2A			1950
1.2			from Kashka-Su Pass		1Б
1.3			along W Ridge		1Б
2. Komsomolets Peak, 4134
2.1			from Fioletovyi (Violet) Pass		1Б
2.2			from Kashka-Su Pass		1Б
3. Pavlika Morozova Peak, 4200, photo #2
3.1			from Fioletovyi Pass over red m-t		2A			1949
2.2			along W Ridge		1Б
4. Olega Koshevogo Peak, 4300, #4
4.1			from N to S		3A
4.2			from S to N		3A
5. Uchitel (Teacher) Peak, 4527, Photos #3 and 7
5.1			Ozaroskii V.		1Б			1938
5.2			Schlunegger A. W cul. and S range		2A*			2011

6. Baichichikey (Snowdrop) Peak, 4515, photos #4,5,6
6.1	left culuar of W wall	2А*	1969
6.2	Seliverstov S.	3Б	2012
6.3	Ilushenko A.	4Б	1989
6.4	Kuzmenko B.	5А	1977
6.5	Dashkevich S.	5А	2007
6.6	Pavlenko D.	5А*	2010
6.7	Poliak V.	5А	1983
6.8	Kalashnikov A.	5А*	1986
6.9	Shvab A.	5А	1980
6.10	Mikhailov M.	5А*	1999
6.11	Chechulin A., Korneev A.	4A*	2008
6.12	Moskaliov A. From E	1Б	1948

List of summits and routes Peak number on the map, name , altitude meters, numbers of photos
Route # on a photo		First climbing team leader, route			Grade			Year
8. Skriabina Peak, 4753, photo #7 and 8
7.1			along W Ridge		3A
7.2			Evsukov G.		3A			1972

8. Semionova T-Sh Peak, 4895, photos #8 and 9
8.1	Plakuschev I.	3А	1987
8.2	Маркевич К.	5Аз	2015
8.3	Fedorov A.	5А	2013
8.4	Nagovitsyna E.	5А	1999
8.5	Zakharov N.	5А	1988
8.6	Dashkevich A.	5Аз	2011
8.7	Nikifirenko O.	5А	1988
8.8	Plotnikov I. Right part of W wall	5A	1996
8.9	Eropunov A.	3А	1952
8.10	Shubin A.	3Б	1950
8.11	Ghubaev A.	3Б	1987
8.12	Pototsky A. Mark Aitken	4А*	2015

Korona West Peak, 4300, photo #10
9.1		Fedorov A.		4Aз
9.2	Seliverstov S.		5Аз		2013
9.3	Dashkevich S.		4Бз		2010
9.4	Novoseltsev E.		4Б		2002
9.5	Seliverstov S/ (solo)		5Аз		2013
9.6	Brown W. М6+		4Б		2012
9.7	Akimov V.		3Б		1994
9.8	Syschikov A. From SW		3Б		2014

Korona Peak, 1st buttress, 4840, #10, photo #10 and 11
10.1	Gavrilov B.	4А	1956
10.2	?	4А	1989
10.3	Pavlenko D. (solo)	5Б	2009
10.4	Koroliev V.	5Б	1980
10.5	Popov F.	5Б	1976
10.6	Plotnikov I.	5Б	1995
10.7	Smirnov U.	5Б	1962
10.8	Ruchkin A.	5А	2000
10.9	Seliverstov S., Akbuiukov D.	5Аз	2014
10.10	Kavughin K.	5Б	1982
10.11	Ruchkin A.(solo)	5Б	2000
10.12	Plotnikov i.	4А	1995
10.13	Belobachenko E.	3А	1976
10.14	Bashmnov Iu.,along chimney from W	3А	1980

Buttress of Korona Peak, #10, photo 11
10.15	S	2А	?
10.16	N	2А	?

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