Mountaineering School

Place: North Tien-Shan, Ala-Archa Gorge, Kyrgyzstan

Best season: May – June, September – October

Duration: 9 days and 15 days (in-country) This course is specially developed for mountaineers and climbers who want to combine learning of new skills and exploring new destination and culture.

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Price 2022: Programme 9 days, 6 days in mountains

Single room supplement: USD 75 per person per program (available in Bishkek only) Programme 15 days, 12 days in mountains

• Price for 1 person – USD 345 
• Price for group 3 person – USD 320 per person
• Price for group 5 person – USD 280 per person
• Full board supplement: USD  360 per person per programme
• Half Board Supplement: USD 215 per person per programme
• Mountain guide-instructor
  • 1 person – USD 1750
  • 2 people – USD 1750
  • 3 people – USD 3190

Single room supplement: USD 75 per person per programme (available in Bishkek only)  NB: Mountain Guide-Instructor works with group of maximum 3 climbers of the same level  

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SKILLS & KNOWLEDGE

For beginners:

• Introduction to basic climbing equipment;
• Attaching to the rope and other climbing knots;
• Moving efficiently over rocky ‘scrambling’ terrain;
• Belaying and protection techniques on rock, ice and snow;
• Use of crampons and ice axe on snow and ice;
• Taking coils and moving together with the rope;
• Short rope techniques for different types of alpine terrain;
• Safe glacier travel and crevasse rescue;
• Descending on snow and ice;
• Alpine navigation and interpretation of maps and guidebook;
• Preparation and selection of climbing equipment

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For advanced mountaineers:

• To give you the full range of alpine rock climbing experiences;
• To coach and develop your existing climbing skills, which in turn will build the confidence needed to climb safely and efficiently in this challenging environment;
• To enjoy some high-quality, classic alpine rock routes;
• Appropriate route selection for prevailing conditions and abilities ;
• Moving together with the rope on different types of alpine terrain;
• Safe glacier travel and crevasse rescue; 
• Interpretation of alpine conditions and weather

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Area of training in brief.

Being located on 3300m in Ala-Archa Gorge in North Tien-Shan mountains, Ak-Sai Glacier is one of the most popular and spectacular places for mountaineering and climbing. About 150 routes from the simplest to the most complicated walls lifting up to 1100m have been travelled there. The summits lift up to the altitude of 4895m (the highest point of the range is Semenov Tien-Shanskyi Peak). Routes are rock, combined, seldom ice and snow-ice. The rocks consist of tough granite and granodiorite. The difference of altitude is till 1100m. The difference of altitude is till 1100m.

The amount of precipitation attains 690 mm p/a. The least amount of precipitation falls in September while the largest one is in May and June. The average temperature is +12 C in spring, -7 C in winter, and +30 C in summer. 

It takes one hour drive from Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan, then and three-four hours of hike from the road terminal in Ala-Archa Gorge to Ak-Sai.

Days	Itinerary	Accommodation
1.	International flight.
2.	Early morning arrival to Bishkek. Airport pick-up, transfer to the hotel. Rest. Last minute preparations, shopping.	Hotel 2* / Guest House
3.	Morning transfer to Ala-Archa Nature Park(1 hour). Trek up to Ak-Sai Mountain Hut, 3200m (4-5 hours). Overnight in the mountain hut.	Ak-Sai MountainHut
4-7.	Acclimatization and training. Ascent to the peaks of 4000m – 4800m.	Ak-Sai MountainHut
8.	Trek down to the Nature Park, transfer back to Bishkek. Option: Sightseeing around Bishkek.	Hotel 2* / Guest House
9.	Early morning departure.	–

Service included in the program price: 

• Certificate of Mountaineering & Climbing School
• Certificate of ascent issued by Kyrgyz Alpine Club
• Registration in local Rescue Service 
• Airport-hotel transfers in Bishkek, return way 
• Transfers from Bishkek to Ala-Archa Gorge, return way
• Accommodation: – – in Bishkek: – 2* Hotel or Guest House – for 3 nights including early check-in  NB: Prices for Hotels 3*, 4*, 5* are available by request.  – – in Ala-Archa Gorge: Ak-Sai Mountain Hut – for 7 nights

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Service available at extra payment (not included in the program):

• Kyrgyz visa fee  
• Visa support (if required)
• Registration in passport department OVIR (if required)
• Transfer / flight from Almaty (Kazakhstan) to Bishkek
• Full board during the program 
• Half board during the program 
• Mountain Guide Instructor
• Dehydrated meals for ascent: by request       
• Bar in Ak-Sai Hut
• Camping gas (propane / butane), screw type: $ 8 per canister (230gr)
• Rent of satellite phone to take for ascent (safety deposit $400 is required): $ 10 per day (Thuraya airtime is charged extra)
• Use of sat phone in Ak-Sai Mountain Hut is free of charge, cost of calls and sms only are paid: $3 / minute, $1 / sms.
• Porterage service to deliver personal gear to Ak-Sai Mountain Hut – USD 40 per porter Note: 1 porter carry up to 20 kg. Overweight has to be paid USD 3 per kg extra.
• Excursions in Bishkek, on Issyk-Kul Lake, Sonkul Lake and others

• Trekking and Horseback riding tours in Kyrgyzstan 

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Conditions and notes: 1) Group members provide personal mountaineering gear for training by themselves. 2) If the group decides to send mountaineering outfit to Bishkek in advance, Kyrgyz Alpine Club can assist with customs clearance. 3) Climbers must have medical insurance (including helicopter evacuation) with a minimum coverage of USD 40 000. 

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List of equipment:

Sleeping bag and sleeping mat, light down jacket, Polartec jacket and pants, windproof jacket and pants, woolen mittens and gloves, cover mittens, woolen hat and socks, UV protecting sun glasses and sun cream, boots for combined routes and gaiters, crampons, ice axe, ski or telescopic poles, rope, harness, prusik, 2-3 ice screws, ascender (jumar), descender, headlamp and reserve batteries, gas burner, thermo insulation flask (thermos) and mug.