Rock climbing in Karavshin - Kyrgyz Alpine Club

There is one thing that's better than mountains. It's mountains that we haven't climbed

Rock climbing in Karavshin

mr_ggg 16.07.2021 0 Comments

Best season: July – September

The canyons are located on the northern slopes of the Turkestanskyi range and administrated by Lyalakskyi raion of the Batken oblast. This is “paradise” for climbers. Rocks of the region are similar to Southern Patagonia by its structure and composition. It’s sometimes referred as Kyrgyz Patagonia but unlike the original weather is much warmer here and extent of walls is much longer. For example, the northern wall of Ak-Suu peak is 2,000 m high. Rocks are composed with solid, monolith granites, limestones and sandstones. Great opportunity for technical climbs on the known routes as well as first ascents and new routes are at climber’s disposal. Warm weather settles from mid June till September. Major precipitation is in autumn.

The first climbers visited area in 1936 during geological expeditions. Their names are well-known: Vitalyi and Eugenie Abalakovi, Maleinov, Austrian mountaineer Lorenz Saladin and the others. Then they unsuccessfully endeavored to ascent the highest peak of the region Piramidalnyi (5,509m). Since that time the region has been forgotten for almost 50 years. The modern exploration started in 1982 with the Russian expedition under leadership of Leonid Trochinenko to the Lyalak gorge. Later in 1986 Karavshin gorge was chosen as the ground for Climbing Championship of the USSR. This one region has more extremely difficult routes of grade B than in all Kyrgyzstan (more than 100). There are more than 50 grade 2-5 routes in the area. The region is accessed by road from Osh and Batken towns. Beside main road there is also air service connecting Bishkek with Osh and Batken.

If you go to Laylak, you should first drive to Katran village and from there one day hike or horse riding to the climbing start. If going to Karavshin, you should drive to Vorukh village and from there one day walk or horse riding. The rout to Karavshin lies through Tadjik enclave Vorukh. For each crossing it’s required to have Tadjik visa (if your country has visa system with Tadjikistan). However, this issue can be “solved” right at the spot though there is no guarantee. Usually to deliver loads from the end of the road to base camps horses are used and can be rented right in the villages. Fresh fruit and vegetables of good quality are available here and even cheaper than in Bishkek or Osh. Other supplies, petrol for primus stoves and gas is better to stock in Osh or Bishkek. The region is in the border area and special permit is required.

Prices 2022:

  • Group of 5+1 people – USD 1410  per person
  • Group of 6+1 people – USD 1335 per person
  • Group of 7+1 people – USD 1270 per person
  • Group of 8+1 people – USD 1240 per person
  • Group of 9+1 people – USD 1200 per person

Scheme of standard programme “Bishkek-Bishkek”:

  1. International flight to Bishkek.
  2. Arrival to Bishkek. Morning flight to Osh. Final preparations for expedition (buy food, check equipment). Accommodation at the hotel 3*
  3. After breakfast transfer to Uzgurush village. Overnight in Guest House

4-5. Transfer from Uzgurush village to base camp location (climbing area). Horse support. Tents

6-12. Acclimatization, climbing (7 days). Tents

  1. Transfer from base camp to Uzgurush village. Horse support. Guest House
  2. Land transfer to Osh. Evening flight to Bishkek. Hotel 3*
  3. Transfer to the airport. Departure. –

Note: Duration of the programme can be changed by request.

Service, included in programme “Bishkek-Bishkek”:

  • Visa support (if required)
  • Registration in passport department OVIR (if required)
  • Border permit
  • Registration in local Rescue Service
  • Return land transfer from airport to the hotel in Bishkek and Osh
  • Land transfer Osh – Uzgurush village – Osh by minivan

 

Accommodation

  • Hotel 3* (incl. breakfast) – 1 night in Osh;
  • Hotel 3* (incl. breakfast) – 1 night on Bishkek;
  • in Uzgurush: Guest House (incl. breakfast) – 2 nights
  • Tent Camp in Karavshin

Note: Accommodation in Hotels 4*,5* are available in Bishkek by request

  • Cook for expedition
  • Full board
  • All kitchen and dining utensils and gas
  • Small gas canisters for ascent
  • Assistance in changing of departure dates of air tickets. Air company fees for change are paid only.

Service does not included in programme “Bishkek-Bishkek”:

  • English speaking Mountain guide 
  • Horse from Ozgerush to Base Camp 
  • High altitude tent for rent – USD 120 per programme per item Note: Deposit – USD 450 per item
  • Rent of satellite phone for ascent – USD 10 per day Note: Deposit – USD 400 (Thuraya airtime is charged extra)
  • Transfer / flight from Almaty or Tashkent to Bishkek from USD 90 per person one way transfer
  • Bar

Extension:

  • Acclimatization programme for ascent (Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai Glacier)
  • Excursions in Bishkek, on Issyk-Kul Lake, Son-Kul Lake and others.

Booking terms and payment:

  1. Prices are valid for groups booked and paid 8 weeks before arrival or earlier In case of late booking and payment (less than 8 weeks) extra charge for formalities USD 70 per person is charged.
  2. Climbers must have medical insurance with a minimum coverage of USD 40 000.
  3. Climbers provide personal mountaineering gear for ascent and choose tactics for ascent by themselves.
  4. If expedition group prefers to send mountaineering gear/outfit to Bishkek in advance, ITMC can arrange customs clearance. For more details contact us.