Expedition: Khan-Tengri (7010m)

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Khan-Tengri

Our programs for the heart of Central Tianshan include transportation by the pre-scheduled helicopter flight between seasonal Maida-adyr base and our regularly established mountaineering camps on the Engilchek glacier, and allow the use of facilities with daily supplies. Conditions and available services are customizable according to each plan and requests from clients.

Prices 2017
  • Bishkek (21 days): USD1830
  • Maida-adyr (17 days): USD1010
Flights 2017
  • July: 2, 7, 9, 14 ,16, 18, 19, 21, 23, 26, 28, 30, 31
  • August: 3, 4, 6, 7, 9, 11, 13, 16, 17, 18, 20, 23, 24, 25, 27
  • Season: From mid-July to late August
Program: Bishkek
Program: Mayda-adyr
Options
Route description

Standard program Bishkek-Bishkek (21 days): USD1830 per person

Price is valid for group of 4 persons minimum. Discount applies for groups of 7 persons and more.

List of included services

Scheme of standard program Bishkek-Bishkek

DaysItineraryAccommodation
1.International flight to Bishkek.
2.Arrival in Bishkek. Transfer to Karakol (430 km, 7-8 hrs).Hotel 2* / Guest House
3.Transfer from Karakol to Maida-Adyr (180 км, 5 hrs) via Chon-Ashu Pass (3822 m). Overnight in the cottages at 2500 m.Maida-Adyr Camp
4.Acclimatization day in Maida-Adyr. Overnight in the cottages at 2500 m.Maida-Adyr Camp
5.Helicopter flight to the Base Camp South or North Khan-Tengri, (~ 25 min). Overnight in tents at 4100 м.Base Camp Tents
6-18.Acclimatization, climbing (15 days).Base Camp Tents/ own tents
19.Helicopter flight to BC Maida-Adyr (~25 min). Overnight in the cottages at 2500 m.Maida-Adyr Camp
20.Land transfer to Karakol (180 км, 5 hrs).Hotel 2* / Guest House
21.Transfer to Bishkek (430 km, 7-8 hrs). Transfer to airport. Departure.

Standard program Maida-Adyr – Maida-Adyr (17 days): USD1010 per person

Price is valid for group of 4 persons minimum. Discount applies for groups of 7 persons and more.

List of included services

Scheme of standard program Maida-Adyr – Maida-Adyr

DaysItineraryAccommodation
1.Helicopter flight to the Base Camp South or North Khan-Tengri, (~ 25 min). Overnight in climber’s own tents at 4100 м.
2-16.Acclimatization, climbing (15 days).
17.Helicopter flight from the Base Camp to Maida-Adyr (~ 25 min).

Optional services

Available at extra payment

  • Transfer / flight from Almaty or Tashkent to Bishkek
  • Return land transfer Bishkek – Karakol – Bishkek $ 240 per transfer by minibus, 8 persons max
  • Return land transfer Karakol – Maidaadyr – Karakol $ 280 per transfer by UAZ, 3 persons max
  • Return land transfer Karakol – Maidaadyr – Karakol $ 420 per transfer by GAZ-66, 16 persons max
  • Baggage delivery from Maida-Adyr to khan-Tengri Base Camp $5 per kg Note: Baggage is delivered by scheduled flight
  • Shared helicopter flight Maida-Adyr – Base Camp $ 270 per person, one way NB: Schedule is floating and should be reconfirmed
  • Helicopter show-flight in area of Inylchek Glacier $ 1670 per half an hour flight
  • Meals: Full Board in Maida-Adyr Camp $ 37 per person per day
  • Meals: Full Board in Khan-Tengri Base Camp $ 52 per person per day
  • Bar
  • Accommodation in Bishkek: Hotel 3*, standard twin/double room $ 80, standard single room $70 incl. breakfast Note: Prices for Hotels 2*, 4*, 5*, and Guest Houses are available by request.
  • Equipment for rent (tent, sleeping mat, gas canisters and gas stove burner, petrol for climbing etc)
  • Camping gas (propane / butane), screw type: $ 10 per canister (230 gr)
  • Mountain Guides (incl. guide’s meals and gear):
    – Mountain Guide: $ 3300 per program
    – Mountain Guide trained according to program of UIAGM standards: $ 3800 per program

    We recommend minimum guide to client ratio 1:2 maximum. For group of 3 clients we advise to have the second Guide. Minimum $2000 is charged for any number of working days of Mountain Guide of the guide’s agreement is terminated earlier than 5 days by client’s will.

  • Rent of satellite phone to take for ascent (available in Bishkek only – safety deposit $ 400 is required): $ 10 per day (Thuraya airtime is charged extra)
  • Trekking and Horseback riding in the area of Issyk-Kul Lake
  • Excursions in Bishkek, Karakol, on Issyk-Kul Lake, Sonkul Lake and othersUse of sat phone and internet in Base Camp is paid according to price listAcclimatization program on Ak-Sai Glacier

Route description

Classical Route from South Inylchek Glacier via west edge of the Semenovski Glacier: It is recommended to reserve first 2 days for walks on glacier in the area of Base Camp for acclimatization.

Camp 1 (4200 m)

Chapaev peak rising above Semenovsky Glacier

Chapaev Peak [5900m] rising above Semenovsky Glacier

Cross South Inylchek Glacier (approx. 6 km) to Camp 1 at the Shubin bivouac (4200 m). It takes 2-4 hours. And it is usual to leave base camp early in the afternoon and sleep in Camp 1 in preparation for a very early start next day. On the glacier there is no serious dangerous except small rivers with swift streams. It is recommended to go round the rivers or cross it with safety equipment on snow places.

From C1 to C2

Due to the prevalence of avalanche activity from the top of Mt Chapaeva (6371 m), and chance increases during a day time, we advise to make a very early start for the next section of the route. Ascent follows through the narrow and steep Semenovsky Glacier icefall to its upper reaches. To minimise the risk from the icefall it is important to pass this part of ascent route very fast and before sunrise. The best if you pass the place under icefall by 7:30am, and get to the Camp 2 by 12pm. Be aware of crevasses on the way and move only as roped team. Camp 2 can be pitched just below the west col at the altitude of about 5300 m. There is usually a snow cave at this point that may be used (on a “first come, first served” basis). Risk from icefall is bigger after mid August.

Camp 2

During period of acclimatisation we recommend to spend two nights at Camp 2, so climbers ascend to 6200 m – 6500 m before descend to the Base Camp for rest. From Camp 2 route continues up the western ridge, where fixed ropes afford some protection for short climbs over two or three metres wide couloirs that interrupt the snow slope. After acclimatization in Camp 2, and rest in the Base Camp, for the second ascent it is possible to make the way from Base Camp to Camp 3 at one day.

From C2 to C3

Khan-Tengri peak from the west

Western ridge of Khan-Tengri Peak

Camp 3 can be pitched at the altitude of 6400 m on the ridge, but space is limited and the location can be somewhat exposed, ridge being prone to violent north winds. It takes from 3 to 6 hours to move from Camp 2 to Camp 3 depending on amount of snow. From Camp 3 ascent route goes up a small path on the right before reaching a large 150 m dihedral. This is the most technically difficult section of the ascent, but it is protected by fixed ropes. Summit can be reached from Camps 2 or 3. From Camp 3 it takes 4-10 hours. Start from Camp 3 is planned for 4 am. Wind in the area of summit is getting slowly between 12:00 and 14:00. Descent to the base camp can be made during a long day.