“Mountain Spirit Program” (MSP)

Nov. 30, 2017 updated

“Mountain Spirit 2018”

mountaineering adventure in Pamir mountains in Kyrgyzstan

At the summer season 2018 Kyrgyz Alpine Club (KAC) already fifth year is going to carry out Mountain Spirit Project (MSP). The main point of the MSP-2018 is: KAC invites free of charge two young climbers from each country of UAAA member to do ascent Lenin Peak (7134m) in Kyrgyz Mountains dedicated 90-years of Lenin Peak first ascent.

Goals:

• to promote true mountaineering spirit, and expand ties of friendship and exchange experience between Asian young climbers.

• to promote mountaineering in Kyrgyzstan and Kyrgyz mountains in countries of UAAA members Expedition area, type of climbing. Zaalay Range of Pamir Mountains, high altitude climbing on Lenin Peak 7134m.

Terms and conditions


  1. Free of charge from Osh to Osh for Lenin Peak.
  2. Time and duration. July 27 – August 15, 2018 (20 days)
  3. Participants.
    • Each expedition team should consist of minimum 2 climbers (one rope). Both should have prior joint climbing training/climbing experience. Teams should be active in mountaineering, training, and demonstrate strong motivation in further development of their mountaineering experience & skills.
    • Age 25-40 (one participant could be older if he is as tutor for another rope member)
    • If a club\federation is going to direct more climbers than number of free expedition packages offered by KAC, it is possible to do with payment. In case if it will be the same dates as dates of MSP, KAC can do it at special discounted MSP price. Please contact KAC about further details.
    • The teams will be presented as joint team of a few nations on Lenin Peak. They will coordinate climbing activities between themselves and with KAC representative.
    • Minimum technical requirements:
    • Mountaineering experience in the mountains over 4000m;
    • Progression on sloping and horizontal fixed ropes;
    • Reclipping on fixed rope without losing belay;
    • Roping (descent) using belay device;
    • Movement on firn and ice slopes (up to 30 degree) by crampons and with ice axe;
    • Movement on dray and wet glacier as rope team;
    • Self-belay on firn and ice slopes;
    • Safe glacier travel and crevasse rescue;
    • Climbing up by vertical fixed rope using 1 jumar or prussik (it is required in case of glacier crevasses accident);
    • First medical aid
    • Experience of expedition stile of life.
    • List of equipment:

    high altitude mountaineering boots (for up to -30C / -22F), hiking boots, snow gaiters, crampons, warm caps, trousers and jackets, windproof & waterproof trousers and jacket with hood, warm & waterproof over-gloves and mitts, mountaineering or climbing harness, climbing helmet, ice screws (2 pieces), karabiners (3-4 pieces), prussic loops (2 pieces of3-5 m / 16 ft of 6 mm cord), rope as minimum 8 mm x 20 m (for each two climbers), ice axe, 4 season sleeping bag (up to -25 -30C / -13 -22F), thermarest or similar sleeping mat, high altitude tent, rucksack (60 l minimum), head-torch, sunglasses, trekking poles, gas stove (screw type), cooking set, first aid kit.

  4. Free service provided by KAC for the teams:
    • Visa support (if required)
    • Registration in passport department OVIR (if required)
    • Border permit and delivery the permit to Osh or BC
    • Registration at Kyrgyz Mountain Rescue Service
    • Certificate of ascent issued by Kyrgyz Alpine Club
    • Airport transfers in Osh
    • Transfers Osh – Achik-Tash Base Camp – Osh
    • Accommodation:
      • in Osh: Guest House – 2 night excl. breakfast
      • in BC: tents on double sharing basis + warm mattresses
      • in ABC: tents on double sharing basis
    • Full board in the BC (3600m) and ABC (4200m)
    • Summer shower in BC
    • Outdoor toilet in BC/ABC
    • Storage service in BC/ABC
    • Electricity supply / Solar panels in BC and ABC to charge batteries
    • Mess tent or yurt in the BC & ABC
    • Route consultation by experienced mountain guides in BC and ABC
    • One training day for crevasses rescue technique
    • Assistance in changing of departure dates of air tickets.
  5. Draft of schedules
  6. DaysDatesItineraryAccommodation
    1July 26-27Arrival in Osh. Transfer to Achik-Tash Base Camp (3600m).BC tents or Guest House in Osh
    2-3July 28-29Lenin Peak Festival, BC acclimatizationBC
    4-18July 30- August 13Acclimatization, training, climbing on Lenin Peak (15 days).BC, ABC, Camp1, Camp2, tents
    19August 14ABC – BC descent, transfer from BC to Osh.Guest House
    20August 15Departure from Osh Int.Airport
  7. Each participant have to have insurance (accident and medical), which cover at list 40000 USD.
  8. General conditions and notes
    1. The trips should be booked 8 weeks in advance for before arrival at latest. We strongly encourage interested participants to send their applications as early as possible. In case of late booking (less than 8 weeks) the fee for urgent formalities US$ 100 per person is charged.
    2. Dates of transfers could be floating by reason of floating time of members programs arriving. All details will be given directly to the participants.
    3. Climbers provide personal mountaineering gear for ascent and choose tactics for ascent by themselves. If climbers want to hire personal mountain guide or instructor for climbing or training, participants carry the same responsibilities are as usual with mountain guide or instructor.
    4. Airlines who operate domestic flights reserve the right to change air fare without prior notice.
    5. On domestic flights baggage allowance is 15 kg per person, overweight is charged as US$ 1/kg.
    6. If expedition group prefers to send mountaineering gear/outfit to Bishkek or Osh in advance, by their request and payment Kyrgyz Alpine Club can help with customs clearance and provide the delivery to Osh.
    7. Climbers have to have medical insurance with a minimum coverage of US$ 40 000. It is required as guaranty of rescue work in case of emergency.
  9. Extra service which is not provided for free:
    • Kyrgyz visa (if required)
    • Air fare to Osh
    • Personal Mountain Guide or instructor
    • Horses and Porters
    • Cook in camps higher of ABC
    • Excursions
  10. Information about Lenin Peak is here -https://cloud.mail.ru/public/Ka33/DAv5xCYJu
  11. Planning participants for :MSP 2018
##CountryYoung climbersExpedition lieder
1Taiwan2
2TaJapan ble2
3Iran2
4Mongolia2
5Hong Kong2
6China2
7Nepal2
8Pakistan2
9Kazakhstan2
10India2
11Korea2
12Bangladesh2
13Russia2
Total 26
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