Expeditioin: Lenin Peak (7134m)

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ITMC & Kyrgyz Alpine Club basecamp for Lenin peak in Achyk-tash

Our standard programs for Lenin peak include transportation by a suitable vehicle between Osh and the seasonal basecamp (BC) in the Achyk-tash valley, and allow the stay at sites: BC [3600m] and the advanced basecamp (ABC) located above [4400m], with or without daily supplies. Conditions and available services are customizable according to each plan and requests from clients.

Prices 2017
  • Bishkek (21 days): USD1050
  • Osh (19 days): USD900
  • Budget program: USD300
  • Season: From mid-July to late August

Program: Bishkek
Program: Osh
Budget program
Options and conditions
Route description

Standard program Bishkek-Bishkek (21 days): USD1050 per person

Discount for long-term partners: USD140 per person
 Discount for a group of 10 people and more – USD100 per person

List of included services

Scheme of standard program: Bishkek-Bishkek

DaysItineraryAccommodation
1.International flight to Bishkek.
2.Arrival in Bishkek. Domestic morning flight to Osh.Hotel 3*
3.Transfer Osh – Achik-Tash Base Camp (3700m).Base Camp Tents
4-18.Acclimatization, climbing (15 days).
19.Transfer from Achik-Tash Base Camp to Osh.Hotel 3*
20.Domestic flight to Bishkek. Transfer to the hotel.Hotel 3*
21.International flight from Bishkek.

Duration of program can be changed by request.

Standard program Osh-Osh (19 days): USD900 per person

Discount for long-term partners – USD100 per person
 Discount for a group of 10 people and more – USD50 per person

List of included services

Scheme of standard program: Osh-Osh

DaysItineraryAccommodation
1.International flight to Osh (directly from Russia and China).
2.Arrival in Osh. Transfer Osh – Achik-Tash Base Camp (3700m).Base Camp Tents
3-17.Acclimatization, climbing (15 days).
18.Transfer from Achik-Tash Base Camp to Osh.Hotel 3*
19.Departure by morning flight.

Duration of program can be changed by request.

Budget program: USD300 per person

Discount for long-term partners – USD25 per person
 Discount for groups of 10 persons and more – USD15 per person

Services included in budget program:

  • Visa support (if required)
  • Registration in passport department OVIR (if required)
  • Border permit and delivery the permit to Osh or Base Camp
  • Registration in local Rescue Service
  • Certificate of ascent issued by Kyrgyz Alpine Club
  • Airport transfers in Osh
  • Transfers Osh – Achik-Tash (Base Camp) – Osh
  • Accommodation:
    • in Base Camp: climber’s own tents – for 6 nights
    • in Advanced Base Camp: climber’s own tents – for 4 nights
  • Outdoor toilet
  • Storage service
  • Electricity supply from solar panels in Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp to charge batteries
  • Ascent and route consultation of experienced Guides

Optional services

Available at extra payment

  • Transfer / flight from Almaty to Bishkek and Osh.
  • Domestic flight Bishkek-Osh-Bishkek US$ 165 / return way>
  • Note: Kyrgyz Airlines reserves the right to change air fare without prior notice.
  • Accommodation in Bishkek: Hotel 3*, standard twin/double room $70-85, standard single room $60-75 incl. breakfast

    Prices for Hotels 2*, 4*, 5*, Guest Houses and Apartments are available by request.

  • Meals in Osh and Bishkek
Services available at extra payment in Base Camp and in Advanced Base Camp:
  • Extra meals in Base Camp (3700m): $25 per person per day
  • Extra meals in Advanced Base Camp (4200m): $40 per person per day
  • Dehydrated meals for ascent: by price list US$ 15-25 per person per day
  • Bar
  • Camping gas (propane / butane), screw type: $10 per new canister (230gr), $6/refilled canister

    Note: Empty canisters have to be returned to the Base Camp

  • Mountain Guides (incl. guide’s meals and gear):
    • Mountain Guide: $2500 per programme
    • Mountain Guide trained according to programme of UIAGM standards: $3500 per programme

    We recommend guide to client ratio as 1:3 maximum. For group of 4 clients it is recommended to have the second Guide. Minimum $950 is charged for any number of working days of Mountain Guide of the guide’s agreement is terminated earlier than 5 days by client’s will.

  • Horse (BC to ABC, 4200m): $2-3 per kg (up to 50 kg)
  • Porterage service:
    • ABC (4200m) – Camp 2 (5100m) US$ 9 per kg (up to 15 kg)
    • Camp 2 (5200m) – Camp 3 (6100m) US$ 18 per kg (up to 15 kg)
    • Camp 3 (6100m) – Camp 4 (6400m) US$ 26 per kg (up to 10 kg)
  • Rent of satellite phone to take for ascent (safety deposit $ 400 is required): $25 per day (Thuraya airtime is charged extra)
  • Use of satellite phone in ABC is free of charge; call and SMS are charged according to the use: $4/minute, $2/per SMS
    • Acclimatization program for Lenin Peak in Kyrgyz Range on Ak-Sai Glacier
    • Trekking and Horseback riding in the area of Lenin Peak
    • Excursions in Osh, Bishkek, on Issyk-Kul Lake, Sonkul Lake and others

Conditions and notes:

  1. Prices are valid for groups booked and paid 8 weeks before arrival or earlier In case of late booking and payment (less than 8 weeks) extra charge for formalities US$70 per person is charged.
  2. For individuals and groups up to 4 climbers shared transport from Osh to Base Camp and from Base Camp to Osh will be provided, day of transfer is floating. Departure schedule of transfers to join should be reconfirmed with ITMC in advance. In rare cases for those who book arrival before July 15 or departure after August 20 an extra day in Osh or in Base Camp may be required.
  3. Climbers provide personal mountaineering gear for ascent and choose tactics for ascent by themselves.
  4. Kyrgyz Airlines operating domestic flights Bishkek-Osh reserves right to change air fare without prior notice.
  5. On domestic flights baggage allowance is 15kg per person, overweight is charged at $1/kg
  6. If expedition group prefers to send mountaineering gear/outfit to Bishkek or Osh in advance, ITMC can arrange customs clearance and provide delivery to Osh. For more details please contact us.
  7. Climbers must have medical insurance with a minimum coverage of US$40,000.

Route description: via Razdelnaya Peak

The way to C1 for Lenin peak

On the Lenin Glacier between ABC (4400m) and Camp1 (5300m)

From Achik-Tash Base Camp (3700m) walk through the glade of Lukovaya Polyana (“wild onion meadow”). As the plateau ends follow the small steep path that ascends towards Puteshestvennikov Pass (4100m). Descend again via the moraine to the right where the climb up Lenin Glacier begins (about 5 km from Base Camp). Walk along the Glacier further for 5 km to the altitude of 4200m where Advanced Base Camp is located on the moraine near the head of glacier. Approximate time from Base Camp to Advanced Base Camp is 6-8 hours of hiking.

Skovorodka on the way to C1

On the way to C1, the section called “Skovorodka” at 5150m

From Camp 1 (Advanced Base Camp, 4200m) cross the flat glacier again and go right up the face to the “Skovorodka” (“frypan”). This area is heavily crevassed and it is highly recommended to use ropes and move together in roped climbing teams of at least 2, but preferably 3 climbers. Relatively steep (45º+) part of snow or ice between camps 1 and 2 are protected by fixed ropes. But be aware that in some parts ice screws are prone to melting out in the midday heat. At the top of the steep section begins the traverse to Camp 2, which is located on a rocky section to the far right of the glacier at about 5300m. Approximate ascent time from ABC at 4200m to Camp 2 at 5300m is 6-8 hours. This section can be exhausting in sunny weather due to the heat.

In front of Razdelnaya peak

In front of Razdelnaya peak at 5700m

From Camp 2 at 5300m ascend steeply above the camp to gain the ridge. Follow the ridge up to an altitude of 6100 m where Camp 3 can be set up on the small col under Mt Razdelnaya at an altitude of about 6100m. Approximate ascent time from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is 4-6 hours. This part of the ascent is a snow slog with few crevasses where rope and harness are not usually necessary. It is possible to camp along the ridge in case of bad weather or emergency.

Lenin peak C2

Camp 2 at 6100m

From Camp 3 at 6100m ascend along the western ridge of Peak Lenin. The first part of this ridge can be mixed snow and rock. A rocky plateau is reached at 6400 m (where it is possible to establish Camp 4 if required). Above this plateau is a short steepest snow slope of about 40 degrees where there is often a fixed rope and an ice axe may be necessary, care should be taken on this short section, particularly on the descent. Above this there is a rocky section before reaching the pre summit plateau which at first drops then rises to the true summit plateau at 7134m. Approximate time from Camp 3 to summit and return is 10-15 hours. The whole route to the summit can be subject to extremely high winds which can also be incredibly cold.