Guidebook: Mountaineering regions of Kyrgyzstan ,

Author: Vladimir Komissarov, Ph.D., President of Kyrgyz Alpine Club CONTENT Introduction 1. Geographic description of Tien-Shan and Pamir 2. Mountaineering regions of Kyrgyzstan А. Tien-Shan B. Pamir Alpine regions of Kyrgyzstan (detailed content) А. Tien-Shan 1. Central Tien-Shan 1) Glaciers: Southern and Northern Inylchek 2) Kaindy Glacier 3) Glaciers: Semenov and Mushketov 2. Terskei Ala-Too Range 1) Karakol and Djeti-Oguz Canyons 2) Turgen, Aksu, Altyn-Arashan and Chon-Kyzylsuu canyons 3) Juuku canyon 4) Western part of Terskey Ala-Too Range 3. Kyrgyz Range 1) Ala-Archa and Alamedin canyons 2) Sokuluk, Djilamysh and Issik-Ata canyons 4. Western Kokshal-Too Range 5. Ak-Shirak Range 6. Kuilu Range 7. Borkoldoy Range 8. At-Bashy Range 9. DjangartMore

West Kokshal-Too Expedition 2006

West Kakshaal Too

West Kokshal-Too Expedition 2006 Written by Pat Littlejohn MEMBERS: Pat Littlejohn, Adrian Nelhams, Vladimir Komissarov (guides), Ulrik Andersen, Ben Box, James Bruton, Joanne da Silva, Greg Paul, Todd Siemers, Nick Wheatley. At the start of September we made the now familiar trip via Naryn to the Kokshal range and established base camp at the delightful lake below the west side of the Navlikin Glacier. On our first full day the full team walked 5 hours up the glacier to recce and acclimatise, then the weather closed in and snowed heavily for 24 hours, putting 30cm of snow at BC and much more higher up. Once the weather cleared we madeMore

Kyrgyzstan Mountaineering Expedition September – October 2006

Kyrgyzstan Mountaineering Expedition September – October 2006 Written by Mark Weeding Mark Weeding and Dave Molesworth traveled to Kyrgyzstan in September for a month’s climbing. Generally this is considered too late for reliable weather for alpine routes but in fact we enjoyed Scottish spring weather of sun and snow making for an excellent trip in this beautiful mountainous country. After a few days acclimatizing in the Ala Archa national park we headed for the Borkoldoy Mountains in the south east of the country, a long two day journey on increasingly deteriorating tracks, and close to the Chinese border just north of the Kokshaal-Too. En route we met Pat Littlejohn, AdrianMore

Fergana Range Aug 2015

Fergana Range

The Fergana range is a long chain of mountains forming part of the Tien Shan range in Kyrgyzstan. It is 206 miles in length with an average height of 3800m. The south eastern end of the range contains the highest peaks and is heavily glaciated below the main watershed. The snow peaks in this area are alpine in scale with heights between 4200m – 4819m. This part of the range can be approached from the north via the town of Naryn and then by following the main road towards the Torugart Pass. The range can then be accessed with a 4 wheel drive vehicle from the wide valley that runsMore

Ak-Shirak on Ski Expedition 2007

Ak-Shirak on Ski Expedition 2007 Written by Dave Wynne-Jones           Scent of lilac drifts about the overgrown parks and leafy streets of Bishkek, while above the marble facades and golden cupolas of Ala Too square shimmer jagged snow peaks of the Kyrgyz range like an unexpected cloud mirage. A day’s travel later, apple blossom is opening in irrigated orchards punctuated by an occasional pink froth of peach or nectarine on the arid shores of Lake Issy-kul. Again, above, the sky mountains are piled all the way to the Chinese border. It is spring in the valleys, winter in the Tien Shan. We drive up the Barskoon gorge through herds ofMore

2011 Djangart Range

Pik Emma (proposed name) Place: Djangart Valley near Ak Shirak Range Climbers: Alex Brighton and Richard Tremellen (UK)  Date of ascent: 22nd July, 2011   N 41.69426 E 078.92930 Map Height 4783m GPS Height 4803m Description: North Ridge (AD) Our route climbed from the Djangart valley, ascending a wide couloir on the west flank of Pt4561, though we never went to the summit of this mountain. We then followed the ridge line south, over Pt 4760 and on to 4783 (Pik Emma, proposed). We descended down a gully on the west face. This was extremely difficult and dangerous due to the poor quality of the rock and we would not recommend this routeMore

2010 Djangart Range

Place: Djangart Valley, Tien-Shan Climbers: Mike Royer, Chris Parenteau (USA), Dan Clark, Matt Traver, Jamie Maddison (UK) Dan Clark and Matt Traver received grant aid from the BMC, MEF and Welsh Sports Association for a joint Anglo-American expedition to the little visited Djangart Range of Kyrghyzstan. The result was three fine first ascents of alpine peaks up to TD- in standard. Together with Americans Mike Royer and Chris Parenteau, and Jamie Maddison from the UK, who was investigating the bouldering potential of the area while reporting on the trip for CLIMBER Magazine, Traver first spent time close to the Kyrghystan capital Bishkek, working voluntarily for the Alpine Fund. Clark would arrive in theMore